MAF sensors can get contaminated from a variety of sources: dirt, oil, silicon, spider webs, potting compound from the sensor itself, etc. The revised diagnostic procedure is a more accurate means of diagnosing the symptoms. This TSB article is a diagnostic procedure to address vehicles that exhibit lean driveability symptoms and may or may not have any Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) stored in memory.įollow the diagnostic procedures described in the following Service Tip. I've posted a TSB regarding lean conditions, hope any of this helps.
but your gonna need some special tools (scan tool being one) I can even post or link to some pinpoint tests to try and help you isolate the problem. I'll help you the best i can if you want. this will help alot in trying to diagnose your problem. You need to view freeze frame data to determine operating conditions when DTC was set. air measurement system (MAF), fuel system (fuel pressure regulator, filter, pump,injectors,EVAP canister purge valve leaking, fuel rail pressure sensor), air induction system (vacuum, PCV) exhaust system, and EGR system. How many miles on your truck? and did you get the fuel trims when you had the vehicle scanned? theres alot of things that can create a lean condition like your describing.
I'm open to any and all help or suggestions. I don't know any honest Ford mechanics here in Salt Lake City and the Dealerships, I here are so darn expensive. I'm about to head back cross country from UT to FL and I'm scared maybe this time it won't make it. I have know idea what's going on but I know one thing replacing the MAFS isn't the solution just a temporary fix, something is causing the MAFS to burn out and I suspect a lean running condition, because when I checked my plugs they are black with carbon. I get to salt lake city, UT and I'm driving around town after driving almost 3000 miles and within 15 minutes of city driving, light comes on, rough idle and that's the way its been for the last 6 months. It ran fine on the hwy and the light stayed off. So, I disconnected my battery, reset the check engine light and drove the rest of the way cross country. I drove it about three weeks and again, same thing, check engine light, rough idle at stop lights and at this time I'm on my way cross country to Utah and I can't take it back to that mechanic in Florida.
So, I took the truck to a local shop in Florida, and after two days the guy calls me and says that the mass air flow sensor was bad, so he charged me $300 and some ot dollars and replaced the MAFS and everything seemed fine, I was able to return the first MAFS and get my money back, so all in all I was only out a few hundred bucks.
It was fine for about a week, then the check engine light came on again, I took it to a place and they hooked up the computer and said my mass air flow sensor was bad.Strange? I took it in to a local shop where they said I needed a Mass air flow sensor and a tune up and since they wanted $350 I did it myself, replacing the mass air flow sensor, new plugs, wires, fuel filter myself. Last summer one day my truck wouldn't start, and then when it did the check engine light was on and it ran a bit rough especially at stop lights where it would rough idle and the engine would rev up and down, on the hwy it runs fine. I've got a problem with my truck (1997 F-150 4.2L V6 Long Bed) and I can't find a good mechanic to help, maybe you guys can.
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